⑧Granada

Sep 19

Written by Michael Rimar

Sep 18, 2026

As I planned my travel I did remind myself to keep it simple. Stay in a place and do day trips, reduce changing Airbnbs. But I can tell that I hadn’t simplified enough. I’d been drawn to Granada but I didn’t want to spend too much time in a place just for its old buildings. And Granada is hotter than Málaga, cooled by the sea. Fly to Málaga, bus to Granada, 1.5 hours for 3 days, then bus back to Málaga. I didn’t see that as too much? Sheesh.

...from the air, approaching Málaga

...from the air, approaching Málaga

...shortly after

...shortly after

...Calle Elvira

...Calle Elvira

...the taxi dropped me on the very busy, narrow Calle Elvira. I located the passage up to the Airbnb's Calle Beteta

...the taxi dropped me on the very busy, narrow Calle Elvira. I located the passage up to the Airbnb's Calle Beteta

...the stairs, or a stepped alley

...the stairs, or a stepped alley

...and on...

...and a little further

...and a little further

...the entry door

...the entry door

...panorama of the view from the address

...panorama of the view from the address

...there are tiles but not usually like this

...there are tiles but not usually like this

...stopped for a cool beverage, also offered a falafel espinaca. Tasty. But all is not as it seems

...stopped for a cool beverage, also offered a falafel espinaca. Tasty. But all is not as it seems

...next morning - the most modern looking place since I arrived in the Albaicin (Albaycin, Albayzin, etc), a delicious trenza danesa pastry

...next morning - the most modern looking place since I arrived in the Albaicin (Albaycin, Albayzin, etc), a delicious trenza danesa pastry

Day two started great with that pastry, but just as I was realizing that my wheat allergy (generally quite specific to US mass produced grain) was kicking in (headache, nasal congestion, scratchy throat), my intestines were telling me something else was wrong. Likely the fruit smoothie yesterday afternoon. I spent most of the day indoors and sleeping, a general malaise shrouding me. Spain was already feeling more difficult - the heat, the language pressure. So, of course, the wondering - how long will this last? do I need to adjust my plans? good to remind myself I’m not chained to this itinerary.
But as it turned out I felt pretty good the next morning! What’s next?!
How ever I may explain language pressure (there wasn’t much, most proprietors spoke some of multiple languages, a business adaptation) I’ve done well in Spanish and French speaking countries. Brief exchanges with a shopkeeper, getting my point across, especially the times that I/we get a laugh about something, through the constricted vocabulary I have - I adapt. Even getting a “me gusto hablar contigo” from a Moroccan fellow (who didn’t speak French or English). As time goes on, I get my “sea-legs” back and more confident, even if I have to say “mas lento, por favor” rather often.

...breakfast, arepa stuffed with scrambled eggs

...breakfast, arepa stuffed with scrambled eggs

...a breakfast message from the Buddha!

...a breakfast message from the Buddha!

...the calle leading to the Alhambra entry

...the calle leading to the Alhambra entry

...one of the many twists and turns to access the palaces; there was nothing translating or explaining the large plaque of characters

...one of the many twists and turns to access the palaces; there was nothing translating or explaining the large plaque of characters

...entry to through the walled enclosure

...entry to through the walled enclosure

...the photo shows the many-times-repaired wall, but I shot it hoping to learn about the yellow stuff in the crevice (still unsure)

...the photo shows the many-times-repaired wall, but I shot it hoping to learn about the yellow stuff in the crevice (still unsure)

...quite a few sweet shops: caramelized sunflower seeds/cashews are typical and many forms of turón, a nutted nougat. The candies, shaped like unhulled almonds. stood out

...quite a few sweet shops: caramelized sunflower seeds/cashews are typical and many forms of turón, a nutted nougat. The candies, shaped like unhulled almonds. stood out

...what are these - trucks with many - gas cans? Bombonas de butano, 30 lb gas cylinders for heating and cooking

...what are these - trucks with many - gas cans? Bombonas de butano, 30 lb gas cylinders for heating and cooking

...un mercado! The one in Barcelona was a full market, vegetables, meat, seafood, a few restaurants. Here, no veggies, but seafood reigned (and jamón)

...un mercado! The one in Barcelona was a full market, vegetables, meat, seafood, a few restaurants. Here, no veggies, but seafood reigned (and jamón)

...I ate at one of the primarily seafood places, most of the plates were large servings of fried shrimp or small fish. I was given a gratis fried sardine with migas

...I ate at one of the primarily seafood places, most of the plates were large servings of fried shrimp or small fish. I was given a gratis fried sardine with migas

...fried sardine w migas (bread/semolina moistened, pan-fried w garlic and pimentón til golden and crispy), this: not crispy or seasoned, but the sardine was good; I ordered arroz mariscos, nice!

...fried sardine w migas (bread/semolina moistened, pan-fried w garlic and pimentón til golden and crispy), this: not crispy or seasoned, but the sardine was good; I ordered arroz mariscos, nice!

...from my seat

...from my seat

...ceiling bacon? a non-dairy flan-esque...but bearing the title bacon?

...ceiling bacon? a non-dairy flan-esque...but bearing the title bacon?

It’s a cute house. The tile floors, Ikea pillows(same one I have at home) nice things around. But I think when I travel, I prefer a modern space. There aren’t any comfortable chairs! Too low for me? I’m learning…

In this case, when I chose an Airbnb in Granada, I knew I’d only be here a short time, so near the Alhambra and restaurants was fine for me. This is an old city, so like Barcelona, Fez, and some sections of other cities I’ve visited it’s a lot of narrow lanes (which folks drive at 30 miles an hour, anyway) and a labyrinth of uneven stairs. Always an amazing opportunity to consider life in another time. And this spot that I selected is very touristy dominated by various Middle Eastern restaurants and teterias: Syrian, Palestinian, Moroccan(not really Middle Eastern), Lebanese and more. I read teteria repeatedly in my first hours here, but it took a while to realize it is simply the other side of a cafeteria - a tea-teria.

I’m wary of the folks hanging around outside these shops, familiarly there to hook tourists. They are very good at engaging people and it’s a performance of sorts, but having talked with a few of them, underneath it all, they are (mostly) nice people which does make me more…receptive? empathetic? I guess true “hucksters” elsewhere have seemed more…malevolent?
It’s time to depart…

...great tile floor, perfect for Cal or Brooklyn Tech

...the water hardware is great! French, brass, flowing

...sure great faucet - but the bowl!!

...quite amazing neighborhood shop, food (this asian section is better stocked than most bay area stores!), household items

...but really nice colored papers, too!

Oh, why no interior of the Alhambra, you ask?
I checked the website there was no indication that tickets weren’t available at the door (I might have expected otherwise at a tourist destination) - sold out today. And I’d also have needed my passport, which I don'‘t carry, maybe I should. Europeans don’t treat them as preciously as we do… I’m not so disappointed. I had a leisurely recuperation day and went to the mercado. What to complain about?

⑨Málaga

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